c.m.s N.Y. Ukolova, c.m.s. A.V. Dirsch, E.A. Kostkina
Department of Trichology, Cosmetology and Neutraceutics
Natural oils in FEMEGYL® cosmetological products
One of the distinguishing features of the FEMEGYL brand cosmetics products is the presence of high quality natural oils in their composition: fermented olive oil, argan oil and shea oil.
In ancient times, olive oil had always been used in all aspects of daily life – from extensive use in household chores and religious rituals to sports and medicine. Furthermore, people of the Mediterranean also used it as a cosmetics product for the skin and hair. It was even called “liquid gold”. One should not forget that the first ever cream was made by the ancient Greek physician Claudius Galenus (129 – 199AD), and it was made using olive oil.
The consumption of olive oil naturally lowers the level of harmful cholesterol in the blood, at the same time leaving the healthy cholesterol unharmed. Olive oil is also indispensable in preventing cardiovascular diseases, strokes, and stomach ulcers.
Olive oil contains half as many saturated fats as other vegetable oils. Its biological and therapeutic qualities are the result of the unique quality of fatty acids: oleic acid (the content of which is 3.5 times higher in olive oil than in any other oil), linoleic acid, and linolenic acid. On the whole, composition of the olive oil really stands out from the other oils: it contains the maximum possible amount of monounsaturated fats and split fats, and the least possible amount of saturated fats. Also, olive oil contains vitamins A, B, D, C, E, and K (vitamin K helps the body to better absorb other vitamins found in fats).
Olive oil is multipurpose to such a degree that with regards to cosmetology, it is suitable for skin of all types and ages.
FEMEGYL cosmetic products make use of fermented olive oil. The controlled oil fermentation allows the triglyceride molecule to be split into a glycerin molecule and fatty acid molecules (including unsaturated fatty acids), without damaging the latter. Fermented olive oil contains tens of times more free fatty acids than normal olive oil.
Fermented oil is far more nutritious, as the fatty acids are already “free” and are able to penetrate the membrane of cells. The oil is “ultralight” since the amount of “heavy” triglycerides is lowered, and the lipid balance is shifted towards the “lighter” free fatty acids. Such an oil is less fatty and greasy, having a soft, pleasant non-sticky feel to it. All the above qualities of olive oil are employed in the FEMEGYL nourishing mask, ensuring the base is “light” and nutritious.
Wrinkles are also prevented with regular use of the FEMEGYL nourishing mask. Furthermore, fermented olive oil contains a large quantity of antioxidants and vitamin E, which helps the skin regenerate and helps the body efficiently absorb vitamins A, D and K, and also prevent the withering of skin cells. Olive oil contained in the nourishing mask softens the skin and prevents the skin cells from losing water, acting as an excellent moisturizer. It is important to note that olive oil does not block the pores and is suitable even for problematic skin.
In FEMEGYL cosmetics, olive oil is used even in the cream for men. The oil in the cream possesses all qualities described above and helps alleviate after-shave irritation of the skin.
The use of argan oil in FEMEGYL products is not just a result of modern trends. Researchers have proven its beneficial effects on human health. Argan oil also has a pronounced anti-aging effect.
Argan oil is obtained from the fruit of a unique species of tree called argania, which is sometimes also called “the iron tree”. This tree only grows in one region in the whole world – the south-west of Morocco. Fruits of the argan are similar to olives in appearance, are yellow in color, and their pulp has a bitter taste. Each fruit contains 2-3 seeds. Argan oil is obtained by means of pressing the cores found inside the seeds of the fruit.
Argan oil is one of the most expensive oils in the world, and is sometimes called the “liquid gold” of Morocco. The high price of the oil is caused by several factors: the laboriousness of the manufacturing process and the need for a large amount of fruit (making 1.5-2 liters of oil needs about 100 kg of argania fruit). According to ancient regional tradition, only women are allowed to partake in the manufacturing process, from harvesting the fruit to hand-pressing of the seeds. The women are seen as putting their heart and soul into the product.
Argan oil contains important omega fatty acids, such as oleic acid and linoleic acid, phytosterols, squalene, alpha tocopherol, vitamin E and carotenoids.
The FEMEGYL line of products contains argan oil as an ingredient in the scrub cream, the regenerating cream for the face, neck, and neckline areas, intense nourishing face mask, and the moisturizing face cream for men.
FEMEGYL products containing argan oil have antioxidizing, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, nourishing and anti-aging properties.
One of the main reasons for the healing properties of the argan oil is the presence of vitamin E. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant. Furthermore, vitamin E plays an active role in tissue regeneration and keeps the skin looking young and healthy. Carotenoids, which are also present in the oil, have pronounced anti-inflammatory, antioxidizing and wound-healing properties. They facilitate the natural production of “beauty proteins” – collagen and keratin. Squalene is a very powerful antioxidant. It is a derivative of vitamin A, it also promotes the natural synthesis of vitamin D, normalizes hormone production, prevents premature aging and supports the immune system. Oleic acid has a powerful protective effect on damaged and sensitive skin, while linoleic acid strengthens the natural lipid barrier and protects cell membranes.
The use of FEMEGYL products with argan oil improves blood circulation, restores the water-lipid mantle, moisturizes and nourishes the skin and decreases the number of wrinkles. The elasticity of the skin is also increased.
Another oil used in FEMEGYL products is shea oil.
The shea tree is called an “African miracle”, and shea oil produced from its fruit is called “African gold”. The Latin name of the plant is Butyrospermum parkii, its Wolof name is karate, its Peule name is kare or kolo, and its Bambara name is se (hence the English name for it – shea). The shea tree is similar in appearance to an oak. Just like oak trees, the shea tree can also live for a period of up to 200 years. The karite tree is considered a holy tree in local African tradition, and its fruit can only be collected by the women. Almost all historical accounts of events in Africa prior to the XIX century mention shea oil. This oil was used even by Cleopatra herself. Long caravans packed with clay crockery were sent from across different parts of the world to obtain the oil.
The greasy shea oil is obtained from the pulp of its seeds, where its content can reach 50%. The core is cleaned and crushed to a fine powder in wooden mortars; it is then boiled to a butter-like state, and from that material shea oil is obtained.
100 kilograms of fruit can yield up from 20 to 30 kilograms of greasy oil. Most of it is triglycerides (up to 80% in total): oleic (40-55%), stearic (35-45%), and plamitic (3%) fatty acids, as well as vitamin A. D, E, and F. In this type of oil, the healing fraction (unsaponifiable) is the most common – from 5% to 17%. The unsaponifiable fraction contains phytosterol and triterpenes. For example, in most other vegetable oils, this percentage is rarely above 1.5%.
The use of shea oil in the FEMEGYL regenerating cream for the face, neck, and neckline areas ensures its anti-inflammatory, anti-swelling, moisturizing, nourishing, antiseptic, regenerating and defensive properties.
Thanks to the presence of linoleic acid in shea oil, the FEMEGYL cream restores the smoothness and elasticity of the skin, as well as reduces wrinkles. Shea oil is rich in vitamins A and E: vitamin A rejuvenates the skin and nourishes it, while vitamin E improves microcirculation and slows down the aging process. The unsaponifiable fraction in the oil has a regenerative effect, improving collagen synthesis and the rejuvenation of the skin, as well as giving it UV protection.
FEMEGYL cosmetic products will never cause any discomfort and will not harm the skin regardless of its individual properties. All oils used in the products are hypoallergenic.
Oils in the FEMEGYL products act as enhancers which improve the penetration of the ingredients into the outer layers of the skin, intensifying and speeding up the process.
The unique composition of the FEMEGYL products ensures that they can be used with any skin type. The oils are universal active ingredients with excellent soothing, moisturizing and anti-aging properties.
This way FEMEGYL products achieve higher efficiency.
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